In summer, a young man's fancy turns to thoughts of sushi, possibly because the heat makes the thought of cooked food all but unbearable, but probably because the scents and brininess and marine richness of great sushi can make you feel at one with the sea, at least until you have to reach for your credit card - and a second credit card, in case the first one doesn't go through. In Los Angeles, where fine dining has meant uni instead of caviar for at least a couple of decades now, the sushi is swell. Here are a few of our favorites.
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