L.A. Times - Food & Dining: Jonathan Gold | L.A. restaurant review: Chi Spacca is all about the meat

L.A. Times - Food & Dining Headlines from latimes.com

Jonathan Gold | L.A. restaurant review: Chi Spacca is all about the meat Apr 6th 2013, 07:00 Let's start with that 42-ounce, $175 steak. Chef Chad Colby, in a space at Mozza, is obsessed when it comes to the ways of all flesh. The first time you visit Chi Spacca, you are probably going to want the bistecca fiorentina , a sizzling cliff of meat that weighs in at a stunning 42 ounces, all salt and char and dripping red flesh, rising from the plate in a spectacle that seems almost geological. Is there a sauce, a potato or a decorative sprig of parsley? There is not — just the steak, which feeds four, willed into slices the size of poker decks, plus the bone and a small, salty puddle of olive oil and blood should you find yourself in need of a condiment. The experience of meat, abetted by small, sharp steak knives that resemble scalpels, does not generally get any purer than this. Media files: 16x9

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