It is late afternoon at McCall’s Meat and Fish. The gleaming cases under the long counter fairly burst with pearlescent sea scallops and grass-fed Angus beef. The customers who straggle in rummage through packets of gravlax and stinky cheese on the refrigerated shelves before they get down to the serious business of what they might cook for dinner. Nathan McCall wanders in with a tiny baby girl in his arms, and for a moment my fellow carnivores and I are so overcome with the beauty of the newborn child that we briefly forget that we have come into the shop for meat.
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