L.A. Times - Food & Dining: Jonathan Gold | L.A. restaurant review: Allumette is haute cuisine with Etsy sensibility

L.A. Times - Food & Dining Headlines from latimes.com

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Jonathan Gold | L.A. restaurant review: Allumette is haute cuisine with Etsy sensibility Sep 7th 2013, 07:00, by By Jonathan Gold Allumette in Echo Park is chef Miles Thompson's follow-up to his pop-up Vagrancy Project, which was in the same space. How do you know you're in a serious restaurant at the moment — a place where the chef ferments his own turnips, keeps a copy of "Modernist Cuisine" by his bedside and dreams of visiting Spain's Mugaritz restaurant?There will probably be a seaweed or two on any given plate, for the color, the crunch and the occasional spark of brininess, and bits of citrus zest will make it into places where you have never tasted citrus before. You will see at least one slow-poached egg, cooked to a perfect near-runniness at 63 degrees Celsius; top-shelf boutique greens that disappear long before you straggle into the farmers market on Wednesday morning; and a couple of flavors snagged from the bartender's cache. Media files: 16x9

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