Sep 7th 2013, 07:00, by By S. Irene Virbila
Across the Table: Bottarga, a taste once acquired, used to be worth smuggling back from Italy. Now that it's more available, it's worth seeking out, especially for spaghetti alla bottarga.
Like cilantro or sea urchin, bottarga is a taste you either love or hate. I was hooked the first time I tasted spaghetti alla bottarga on the island of Sardinia in the Mediterranean. The al dente pasta dressed with fruity olive oil and dusted with amber-gold grated bottarga tasted like summer on a plate. And I loved the cured mullet roe's sharp, briny funk.
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