Friday, August 16, 2013

L.A. Times - Food & Dining: Jonathan Gold | Restaurant review: Connie and Ted's, a clam shack extraordinaire

L.A. Times - Food & Dining
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thumbnail Jonathan Gold | Restaurant review: Connie and Ted's, a clam shack extraordinaire
Aug 17th 2013, 07:00, by By Jonathan Gold

Connie and Ted's conjures Rhode Island on the West Coast, be it with clams of all kinds, lobster cooked just right or oysters treated with reverence.

Michael Cimarusti is the chef of Providence, the modernist French-Asian restaurant that is often considered the finest kitchen in L.A. He can do things with sea urchin, Santa Barbara spot prawns and Japanese sea bream that occasionally cause reactions I probably can't describe in a family newspaper. So it is important to note that Connie and Ted's, already one of the toughest reservations in town, is neither a chefly interpretation of a Rhode Island clam shack nor a fantasia on the theme of New England seafood.

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