Michael Pollan may have spent a zillion pages examining the smoked whole hogs at North Carolina's creaky Skylight Inn in "Cooked: A Natural History of Transformation," and the legend of Kansas City's Arthur Bryant's is eternal, but the real story in barbecue in the last several years has been the gentrification of the genre: spareribs and long-smoked brisket repositioned as totems of the artisanal food movement. Before, barbecue's visionaries were the cranky old dudes poking logs at 4 a.m. At the moment, they tend to be youngish bearded guys with Twitter accounts and a taste for craft beer, carving their reputations out of pork shoulder and clod.
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