Cortez in Echo Park is a small-plates restaurant that may divide diners, and its dishes, some delicious, may be difficult to divide among diners.
What you think about Cortez is going to depend in large part on what you think about crowds, and noise, and screechy jazz, about well-meaning servers who are slightly impatient with the idea of service, and about spending most of an hour leaning up against a shoe box-narrow windowsill waiting for a seat to open up.
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